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Transforming a Pressure Pot for Resin Casting



I attended a seminar last spring at the Oregon Woodturning Symposium about casting resin. One of the takeaways I got was that I needed to find a used pressure …

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  1. I've learned a lot from your other videos, but a PLUMBER you ain't. Binks still exists, I would bet money that you can get a real seal for this pot. And just what is the tank rated for pressure wise?
    Maybe you should research that….. Be careful please.

  2. One tip for pneumatics the thread sealing tape when putting it on threads leave 1-3 full threads uncovered so threading other parts on is easy. Just makes your life a headache if they dont thread

  3. This video made me cringe. Use soapy water to find air leaks. Use a wire wheel to clean at least your seal area. Cut the tubes coming into the pot with your grinder. On and on and on.
    Next time study up before you jump into an unknown field or buy NEW. It could save your life or at least our body parts. Never ever do away with a relief valve.

  4. very cool. maybe you could apply the same technique again but make a handle out of the cast and use for the handle of your dust bin. that would be cool.

  5. Also the reason there was bubbles in your test piece was because there’s moisture in the paper of paper cups. Moisture causes problem with any resin, but especially Alumilite, which I could tell is what you used.

    If you used a plastic cup, it would have came out perfect.

    Have fun Frank, I know you’ll love it!

  6. Have fun Frank! My whole channel is pretty much dedicated to pressure resin casting, so let me know if you have any questions.

    Binks pressure pots are the best of the best. They are ASME rated for 110 PSI I believe. Obviously that’s voided with your aluminum contraption but regardless, you got a fantastic deal on yours.

  7. Frank,
    Stop pressurizing at 60PSI. I get bubble free, crystal clear castings with MAX 30PSI. My pot is rated for 80PSI but there isn't a need to go higher than 30. In addition, rather than driving yourself nuts by chasing leaks, consider the fact that the most important bubble pressurization takes place in the first few minutes of you adding air to the tank so losing a pound or two of pressure over the course of an hour isn't terrible. Also consider your resin's pot life and cure time. Pressure is doing nothing for you after your pot life cycle. The bubbles need to be taken care of before your resin gels. I use Smooth-On Smoothcast 327 resin which is close to the end of it's pot life by the time it enters the tank so I'm really only getting useful pressure for maybe 5-7 minutes but it's enough to give me a crystal clear casting. I of course let it sit in the pressure for the remaining cure time but by then the resin has minimized your bubbles.

    Also, Your first casting example @ 14:02 doesn't look like a pressurized cast. Something went wrong. You shouldn't see bubbles like that in any pressurized cast. See my comment about the pot life of the resin and make sure your getting it in the tank before it starts to gel. You should be getting better results than that. I don't have a youtube channel but some of my casts can be seen on Instagram (at) retrotoypile. I hope this helps.

    Resin is fun. Keep experimenting.

  8. I like your handles you use to tighten the clamps, but have you considered perhaps making those for all of the handles and gluing them in place?

  9. In SCUBA class, we learn about Charles' Law. Essentially that the volume of a gas is proportional to the pressure exerted on it. At the pressure you're working at, the bubbles are only going to be reduced to about 1/4 their size. Understandable why they're still visible.

  10. If you use a vacuum and then pressure you won't need as much pressure. With an old pot like that I would keep the pressure on the low side anyway.
    I've watched more of your video…buy new, you really don't know what you are doing and are going to kill yourself treating a seriously dangerous tool like it is a fun thing to experiment with.

  11. Frank, I really like how you use push sticks and such while running your table saw and such. There is another channel I watch once in a while that makes me cringe each time he uses his table saw with just his fingers mere inches from the turning blade.

  12. To test for leaks in the future you can make a soap solution and put it around the threads and if the solution bubbles air is leaking in that spot.

  13. I think you could make some cool things where bubbles are intended, but the size of the bubble scales with the 1/3 power of the ratio of pressures so i dont think it is a very efficient idea to make clear castings. You would need very high pressures to get anything small enough to not be very visible and then the casting might just look cloudy with a ton of bubbles scattering light in the casting..

  14. When using teflon tape, you only need to do one wrap around the thread. Pipe threads are tapered and the teflon allows the mating thread to screw on further thereby making a better seal.

  15. make a new cover using acrylic 20mmm, as its a vacuum chambers should it will not holdup to the pressure its just collapses, no biggy.

  16. Try pulling a vacuum on the chamber to get most of the bubbles out of the resin, and then put it under pressure to shrink the size of any remaining bubbles. This will also help present to penetrate the pores of whatever you have mixed with it, and will make for a better bond in the long run.

  17. Try pulling a vacuum on the chamber to get most of the bubbles out of the resin, and then put it under pressure to shrink the size of any remaining bubbles. This will also help present to penetrate the pores of whatever you have mixed with it, and will make for a better bond in the long run.

  18. Try pulling a vacuum on the chamber to get most of the bubbles out of the resin, and then put it under pressure to shrink the size of any remaining bubbles. This will also help present to penetrate the pores of whatever you have mixed with it, and will make for a better bond in the long run.

  19. Easily find leaks under positive pressure with soapy water in a spray bottle — the leaking air blows bubbles. Vacuum is better for the actual casting though… the tiny air bubbles find their way out and also, draws the resin into the fibres and cavities.

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